The scene opens with shiny black asphalt splattered alongside buildings reaching ever higher toward the sky. Then we move to the sparkling sands of the desert reflecting the solar flare. A confident gentleman comes into the picture wearing shades of white and camel; he moves from one scenario to the other with ease and aplomb. He is the Trussardi spring-summer man. Action!
Many experts would agree that Trussardi’s 2014 spring collection is the brand’s best to date. It was presented on 25 June at Milan’s Fashion Week to great acclaim. Trussardi introduces a neutral palette of sand, beige and camel, splashed with notes of chocolate, in an irresistible combination of slouchy pants, Bermuda shorts, and deliciously bulky shirts, complemented with sandals and large bags.
This is the opera prima of the brand’s new creative director Gaia Trussardi, granddaughter of the founder of the Italian label. The designer flooded the runway with mostly accessible looks inspired by the desert. She employed light fabrics and loose cuts to remind us of the classic elegance of Casablanca or Tunisia.
This collection features classy leather jumpsuits, drawstring pants, light coats inspired on pajamas, aviator jackets, neoprene shorts, knits, gabardines and the occasional trench coat. The brand’s iconic suits are still present. Vis-à-vis the colorful futurism of Ferragamo, Missoni’s loyalty to knitwear, or Prada’s floral prints, Trussardi retains its usual serenity in this journey from the asphalt to the sand.
The origin of this Italian label was centered on the creation and distribution of high-end gloves, but the brand has evolved into a symbol of discrete sophistication and experimentation in its collections.
The legacy of Dante Trussardi lives on in his granddaughter’s first collection. Gaia Trussardi has managed to combine exclusivity and tradition in what promises to be a bright future for the firm. ■